Buddha Trails is an Ultra race of 65 Kms, +3300 mtrs elevation, conducted in Rimbick, Darjeeling, West Bengal. The race starts at Rimbick Bazaar, then it takes the runners through Srikhola bridge to Dhupi tar and then to highest peak of West Bengal, Sandakphu. From the Sandakphu peak, four 8000+ mtrs mountain ranges of Everest, Makalu, Lhotse & Kanchenjunga, are visible. After climbing the peak, the runners run along the ridge upto Phalut and then start descending to Gorkhey, then to Ramman and finally through Srikhola bridge towards the finish point at Rimbick Bazaar. A runner has to complete this course wthin the cut-off of 15 hrs.
For many years, I had the wish of participating in this race due to its scenic beauty the course had to offer. Every year I used to get dissuaded due to the high number of leaves required for this race because of travelling and acclimatization time. Finally in 2024, I decided to participate in this race, and if required, sacrifice any other event in later part of the year. I started my journey on Wednesday (11 March) by flying to Bagdogra airport & from there took a shared cab from Darjeeling Mod to Rimbick (individual cabs can also be booked, however it is cost effective, if in a group). The journey to Rimbick took ~5 hrs including the lunch break en-route. I had booked a home stay near the start point itself, so that I don’t have to travel much. After reaching in evening around 4:30 PM, I went for a short walk in the nearby area alongwith my homestay host.
The next day morning, I went for a run of around 12 kms, till Srikhola bridge and back to Rimbick Bazaar. Again, in the evening, I went out for a short walk of ~4 kms in the nearby areas in search of monastery (unfortunately couldn’t locate that day). I was discussing with my host, that I wanted to gain altitude so that I could get acclimatized to the thin air, he recommended climbing to a nearby area, which would help in this endevours. So the next day morning, we started hiking towards an area, which was high in altitude, and fortunately I crossed the monastery, which I had missed the previous day. After hiking for about 1.5 hrs, we could gain upto 2900 mtrs only & then we decided to turn back. After coming back, I had a continuous slight headache giving an indication of exposure to less oxygen. I knew the race day could be difficult as we would be going upto an altitude of +3700 mtr, & should try to cross those areas as early as possible.
The day prior to the race day, I went for an easy 6 kms run in the morning, to keep the muscle activated. Later in the day collected my bib, attended the race briefing by the race director and then prepared my kit for the D Day. After the bib collection had submitted my drop bag consisting of another pair of shoes, socks, gels to the organizers. However, during the entire preparation, I did a blunder in mis-calculating my clothing, which could have proven costly on the race day.
Race-Day
Rimbick to Sandakphu (18 kms): The race started at 5 AM with final cut-off at 8 PM & intermediate cut-offs at Sandakphu, Sabargram & Gorkhey. My strategy was to reach Sandakphu, by 4-4.5 hrs being the major climb & then try to complete the race within 14 hrs. I started the race with moderate pace, saving the energy for the difficult climbs ahead, the first aid station was at Srikhola bridge at 5.5 kms which I covered in ~40 mins. Immediately after crossing the bridge the climb started, having 2 aid stations before reaching Sandakphu. The next aid station was at Gurdum (10 kms into the race), which I took- ~2:15 hrs to reach, after taking electrolytes, fruits, I moved on towards the next station. At this point of time, the climb was getting steeper & I was feeling colder, which I hadn’t experienced during the training runs. Both of my hands, which was uncovered as I was not wearing the gloves, was completely cold and I didn’t had any sensation in them with moving them becoming extremely difficult. Somehow, I managed to reach the next aid station at Dhupi Tar(14 kms) in 3.15 hrs, hearing my plight another benevolent runner Mr. GS shared his gloves with me. As there was a hut nearby, I warmed my hand with the kitchen fire and with the help of aid station volunteers, managed to wear those gloves as I was unable to move my fingers as they had bent. After this I moved with more vigour as the next aid station of Sandakphu (18 kms), was the highest point of the race and the culmination of biggest climb. I managed to reach Sandakphu in 4.30 hrs & after having electrolytes, potatoes, oranges, I immediately left the aid station, as I didn’t want to spend to much time in a high-altitude place.
Sandakphu to Sabargram (32 kms): The next cut-off was at Sabargram at 1PM, which was the location of drop bags as well. From Sandakphu, it was mostly a downhill to the next aid station of Thukum at 25 kms & just few meters from the aid station, photographers were clicking the pictures of the runners, as I was running in no mans land (there was no runner before or after me for some distance), the photographers were kind to take my pics with the Sleeping Buddha. After relentless climbing, this stretch gave somewhat a breather being downhill or without elevation gain for most of the path. In Thukum, refilled my hydration bag & moved towards Sabargram, this stretch again had uphill & elevations alognwith rarified oxygen due to altitude gain. My pace in this stretch reduced drastically (was walking mostly) & was overtaken by few other runners. The positive about this section was, it was very beautiful & had different feeling with the fog cover. I reached Sabargram at a slower pace than expected, I changed my socks, had some light snacks & moved towards the next aid station.
Sabargram to Phalut (39 kms): In this stretch we were running along the mountain ridge & was mostly rolling. The motivation was, that after reaching Phalut, it was mostly downhill for the next 10 kms, with 2 minor climbs later on. I interacted with few people, who were taking their material on ponies towards Nepal and the aid station volunteers at Phalut, were also from Nepal. The aid stations always give an opportunity to interact with fellow runners, as some would leaving the aid-station, the other entering the aid station & some taking a breather at the aid station for few minutes. Here, interacted with few runners, joked about the route we had encountered & prayed that the balance route would be good.
Phalut to Gorkhey & Samaden (50 kms): This stretch was through the jungle – single track & all downhill, being beautiful & scary at one-time. The organizers had informed that the lunch will be served at Gorkhey village (49 kms), & I was cruising in this stretch in the hope of having a meal. However, after reaching Gorkhey as I couldn’t find the aid-station, I was afraid, that had I taken any wrong route & would have to back track all those steps. I called the Race Director, to verify the location of the aid station, he confirmed that the route was correct but the aid station was moved to Samaden, which was another 1.5 kms away & after climbing a small hill. In the aid station, I had light lunch of dal rice & decided to not take much time, and moved out from there in 7-8 mins. At this point of time, I had been running for ~10 hrs & it was approx. 3PM in the day. My aim was to complete the race before the sundown, so that I don’t have to run in the dark.
Samaden to Ramman (54.3 kms): This section was the last major climb of the race, after so much running, this became more difficult. However, 2 factors that acted as motivation was, this was a very beautiful jungle section, with multiple rivulets, small bridges adorning the surroundings & the 2nd being, after this aid station, it was all downhill. I didn’t click pictures in this section as I didn’t wanted to lose more time. This is the section, were a dog started following me & we started running with each other giving company. At Ramman, the aid stations volunteers confirmed that the jungle section has been completed & the next sections, were through villages, jeep tracks.
Ramman to Srikhola (59.8 kms) : This section was total downslope & runners mostly slow down, due to the prior pounding of the legs. As I didn’t wanted to run in the dark, I kept on grinding (may be breezed) through this section & started crossing many runners. When I reached the Srikhola aid station, still there was sufficient light as it was ~5PM & one of the organizers known to me, told me that more runners can be over taken in the last stretch.
Towards Rimbick the Finish Line (65kms): As I had earlier practiced in this stretch, this was a known route without any major surprises. I cruised through this, knowing that, I would be able to finish before the sundown. As I approached Rimbick, local populace started cheering as they had been doing for all the runners & in the final few meters I egged on few kids to run along to the finish line.
It was a feeling of relief after completing the grueling race. I returned the gloves to the runner who had given it to me at the finish line. I went back to the home stay, took bath & had some tea, omlette for the dinner as I couldn’t have a full meal. My courteous home stay host, collected the drop bags from the finish line, for me & other runners and letting us to rest.
The next day, I started early in the morning at 5AM following the same route to Bagdogra & to Bengaluru.
Hope to return to this place, some other time, may be for more days.
Running Tales by Sudipto 